Serves 2

The right name for this delicious offal extravaganza has eluded me for years. Technically the kidneys are not devilled – that needs cayenne. I worry that mustard in the title might put you off (the kidneys might too but some you will like them) – the flavour is mild. I use French mustard, made with vinegar which retards some of the heat of the spice and it is so right in the dish. You’ll just have to try it!

Print the recipe here

Our kidney supper in the evening light, garnished with parsley

• 6 lambs kidneys

• 2 tbsp oil

• 2 tbsp smooth Dijon mustard

• 2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

• 100ml water

• Boiled rice to serve

1. Prepare the kidneys. I use scissors and snip off the ends, then cut away the meat from around the white core, which is discarded. I cut 6-8 pieces from each kidney.

2. Heat a frying pan then add the oil. Add the kidneys and cook them quickly until browned on all sides. Stir in the mustard, Worcestershire sauce and water and add some pepper, Bring to the boil, then simmer for 10-15 minutes until the kidneys are tender.

3. Season to taste – I seldom add salt but use lots of black pepper, but that’s up to you. Serve simply with boiled rice.

The same dish, an older picture. That’s a sleeping pepper mill in the background.

Top Tips:

• Kidneys are a great thing to have in the freezer as they are cheap, nutritious and quick to cook.

• I prefer lamb’s kidneys for this as they are milder than pig’s. They are also a prettier shape as pig’s kidneys are often sold sliced.

• Use butter if you wish instead of oil but it makes a much richer dish.

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